Kansas---"By the way, I loved you in the Wizard of Oz."

I could hear the wind during the night and I kept hoping that the forecast would be wrong...I wasn't looking forward to another day of crosswinds and headwinds. I wanted to get started by 6 a.m., but 6:30 was the best I could manage. The sunrise over Coldwater Lake was beautiful. Karen and I headed east on Highway 160 over some rollers...a lot of rollers. I told Patty to come and find us in an hour or so...we would know by then just how hard the day was going to be.



The storm that was coming was supposed to bring high winds with it and get to us by 3 p.m. I could be finished by then...shorter stops for food, less time off the bike, and an average of 13 or so.

Kansas was pretty. The terrain was the same most of the day...rollers and more rollers. We had 3 miles near the end of the day where we had a tailwind...you come to appreciate those.

We passed an historic Catholic brick church near Attica that I thought was pretty cool...built in the 1800's. We also passed a house that I'm pretty sure was Dorothy's...





Patty and I saw a sign in Sharon that said it was the birthplace of Martina McBride...I love her!


I finished the day with 100.2 miles, an average of 13.08, and about 1600' of elevation gain.
Flat Stanley learned a little about oil wells today...he is a great traveller...


I rely a LOT on Karen and Patty. They take most of the pictures that I'm posting on this blog. My photography skills are minimal, and both of them have a great eye. I so appreciate that. They have been great support for me.





We headed south to Ponca City and then east to Kaw Lake where we spent the night. The campground is an Army Corps of Engineers campground and we were elated about our site right on the lake with a view of the thunderstorm to the west. Patty wasn't going to put her rain fly on.."I'll risk it...". Well then, I'll risk it too. We had another hearty meal of pasta, broccoli, carrots, rice, beef brisket and micheladas, and got ready to call it a night. The wind started blowing about 50 m.p.h. "Is that rain?". Patty asked. "No," I answered, "It's wind." We decided we had better put the rain flys on...but it was a lot harder now with the wind. We hunkered down and were in the middle of a major thunderstorm, texting each other from the warmth and shelter of our itty bitty tents. Crazy.



maybe you can't...because you won't...

Texas---"But what? Everyone has a big "But... C'mon, Simone, let's talk about your big "But..."

I left Dumas...pronounced Doo'-mass...around 6:30 in the morning and covered about 38 miles before Karen and Patty caught up with me. They found a place that made homemade tortillas...yum!




It was great riding, but oh, so flat. We saw corn and wheat and range land with lots of cattle. At one wide spot in the road there was a collection of windmills that were very cool...donated by a man named J. B. Buchanan.










The temperature, however was not cool. The day kept heating up and by the time we were finished riding, the mercury was in the mid 90's. We had a cross/headwind the last 70 miles, and both Patty and I were spent by the end of the ride.




The good news is that with the early start, and an acceptable average, we would be able to get to our overnight stop at Coldwater Lake and maybe...maybe be able to relax for a couple of hours.
Which is what we did. Sorta. We got to Coldwater Lake and drove around for awhile looking for a spot to camp. Karen took the lead and knocked on the door of a trailer which just happened to be the trailer of the caretaker/manager. She had us follow her to the other side of the lake where there there was a covered area that we could claim as our own. Which is what we did. When we asked her about the camping fee, she said she wasn't going to charge us...evidently cyclists hold a special place in her heart...and now she holds a special place in my heart too. Thanks for accommodating some weary riders.
The wind came up and a shower came across the lake, but under the shelter we were fairly dry. We even set the table with a tablecloth and cooked a wonderful meal of rice with carrots and broccoli and some brisket and pork ribs.








The weather forecast was not good. Wichita was expecting high winds and thunderstorms. And the direction of the winds? From the east, of course...the direction we were heading in the morning. Sigh...I went to bed hoping that the winds would change their mind. Stats for today: 100.6 miles. 14.2 average, 466' elevation gain.
maybe you can't...because you won't...k

New Mexico---"We'll jump off that bridge when we come to it."

Because of our late arrival to Cimarron, I didn't get the Rodriguez cleaned. I intended to ride the Litespeed today. Until I went to pull it off the rack...the rear tire was flat and I started having flashbacks to when I wrestled the front tire off. Sigh...I guess the cleaning will have to wait. Poor Rodriguez bike...I pulled it down and Patty and I headed east on Highway 64. We had gone 2 miles before I realized we had missed the turn to the south. The great thing about what I am doing is that it doesn't really matter if I get lost...all the miles count. My right shifter wasn't working either...I could shift up a gear, but couldn't get the derailleur to bring the chain back down unless I stopped and did it manually. It was a little like riding a fixie. Great morning so far...:)






The terrain down Highway 21 was rolling hills dotted with sprawling ranches. We saw a large complex called the Philmont Scout Ranch...donated to the Boy Scouts by an oil man named Waite Phillips. The grounds were gorgeous.



Antelope were watching us pass. I thought it was interesting that all of them were about the same distance from the highway. I wonder if they know what a safe distance from a rifle shot is? We were on the Santa Fe Trail a good portion of the day and there is some rich history associated with the trail. It was a major trade route between Sante Fe and Los Angeles and many people settled in the areas of Cimarron and Taos trying to escape the drought conditions further east.


We were thinking some pasta sounded good for dinner, so Karen stopped at a small market in Springer. "Do you have any pesto?" she asked the clerk.

"What's pesto? Is it an energy drink?" the clerk offered. Oh my.

I finished my ride west of Clayton with an elevation gain of 2082', 100.2 miles, and an average of 14.74.



We drove to Dumas where there is a municipal park on the edge of town. Sadly, it does not have showers, but there are shady, grassy areas to pitch your tents, and a breeze was already cooling things down. We set up the tents and asked two couples who were camped in fifth wheelers if they would keep an eye on our stuff while we went and did laundry. They were headed on an adventure of their own...to Alaska. When I asked them where, they said "all over".

We got our laundry done, ate a dinner of chicken sandwiches, chips and carrots, and by the time we got back to our tents, the sun had set. Our neighbors said a car had been eyeing our stuff, and Karen didn't think twice before she called the police and asked them to patrol the park more often tonight. They assured us they would. Dumas seems like an economically depressed town, with very little going for it.

I still had that bloody tire to change, but it wasn't too bad. I charged all of my electronics and headed for bed, vowing an early start...for tomorrow's high will likely be in the upper 80's.

maybe you can't...because you won't...

Colorado---"Enough of this Sunday stroll..."

The temperature at the Pagosa Lodge in Pagosa Springs was hovering around freezing when we woke up. We had talked to some locals who said Rose's restaurant had great breakfasts, so we headed over there. Chandler was our server and she was hilarious. The special was a Belgian waffle and it was "$2.00 plus 4 quarters.". She told us she likes to mix it up a bit. She also told us Rose's does not serve oatmeal on Sundays. O...kay.

We headed up the pass and pulled the bikes off around 9 a.m. I think the temps were in the mid 20's. Brisk. Flat Stanley was intrigued by the Continental Divide display. Karen and I were shivering. But oh, the downhill. And oh, the beauty surrounding us! A couple of tunnels, the cute town of South Fork with all of its little cabins, and then we were headed east towards Del Norte.









Patty found an artsy little restaurant and shop where she said she could've spent a lot of money, but really...there's no more room in the truck. She'll have to come back.


In Alamosa we headed south on Highway 285, encountering a nasty headwind. If you were hold a clock directly in front of you, the wind was blowing from 1:00 to 7:00. Blast. Patty and I decided to do a little drafting off each other, changing positions every half mile or so. I don't do a lot of drafting when I ride...don't really like to...but it certainly helped my fatigue factor. Before I knew it, we had ridden the 21 miles south we needed, and had turned east on highway 142 where I finished the day. 100.6 miles...15.64 average...952' of elevation gain.








My shifters were sticking, and so were Patty's. We decided to try and stop at a bike shop in Taos. We called at 6:00 and the owner was just closing. We must have sounded desperate...he was willing to wait for us...and we were hoping it was going to be a 10 minute job. An hour and a half later, Rey Deveaux had Patty's shifters working well, and mine were...better. The drive train really needed to be cleaned, so I planned on riding the Litespeed in New Mexico, and giving the Rodriguez a little tender loving care. Thanks, Rey, you are our hero! 3 days...3 bike shops...3 awesome mechanics. Incidentally...as Rey and Patty talked, they discovered that Patty's soon-to-be son-in-law worked in Taos with Rey on the ski patrol. Small world, eh?


We had seen a LOT of motorcycles coming into Taos. Rey told us that they were in Red River to attend a Veteran's Memorial Day service. Veteran's Memorial State Park in Angel Fire is the only state park in the United States wholly dedicated to the veterans of Viet Nam. Awesome.

Because we had spent so much time in Taos, we were running late getting to Cimarron, our overnight camping spot. Highway 58 was a winding road through forested land, something we didn't expect. Speaking of something we didn't expect...as we neared Cimarron, we saw a large truck parked on the bank of the highway with his headlights on...we wondered what he was up to..."Snipe hunting", I ventured. We laughed...and then saw the herd of elk at the edge of the highway, scattering every which way...a few of them ran right in front of us...two crossed, and the others turned back. Close call. Sheesh.

We set up our tents in the dark. Ate in the dark. And three weary women said goodnight until 6:30 tomorrow morning.

maybe you can't...because you won't...

Arizona---"But I feared that I myself had unleashed him. For he was the fury that would be as soon as Florence Arizona found her little Nathan gone."

Brutal. We were up at 5:30, and my intention was to ride from about 13 miles south of Page to the east side of Kayenta. The wind was howling, and in our faces I might add, so after 6 miles, we decided to bump all the way south to Hwy 160 and head east. If you are thinking "well, they just ride the easy parts" please read on.








The wind was a sort of cross/ tail wind with gusts that wanted to send you into the traffic lane. Add to that a rumble strip and narrow shoulder and you have a good training exercise for bike control. I have seen pictures of Monument Valley...westerns set in Monument Valley...where the sky was blue and the air was clear. When the dust started blowing, the air turned brown and we couldn't see the sky...couldn't even see the sun. Patty and I pressed on and I finally finished near Red Mesa. When we had loaded the bike and gear, we had hoped to stop at Four Corners...but none of us saw the sign, and then it was too late. We didn't want to turn around and go back. :( Flat Stanley was a little miffed...he gave all of us a lesson in map reading.










We stopped in Durango at Hasslefree Sports because the bikes were filthy and a lot of that dust had gotten into the shifters. I was thinking about some spray lubricant, but Chris said bad idea. And he's right. Why? Because we may have more dust tomorrow and the next couple of days, and if we do, that lube will pick up all of that dust and gunk up the shifter. He offered to use some compressed air and blow out the shifters. Thanks for being our second hero, Chris. Bravo to Hasslefree Sports!
I finished the day with a little over 3200' of elevation gain...100.1 miles, plus a little over a mile where I forgot to turn the Garmin on...and an average of 16.95.
Was today's ride fun? Not exactly. Was it memorable? Absolutely. Would I do it again tomorrow? In a heart beat...but not tomorrow...because tomorrow we do Colorado and the elevation profile looks like the letter "L"...L is for love it.
maybe you can't...because you won't...

Utah---"This rock has been waiting for me my entire life."

We were up before the sun, and so was Lucy, bless her heart. She fixed us some scrambled eggs, and along with some toast and yogurt, we were fueled for the morning. Thanks for the great hospitality, Lucy...hope to see you in the Pacific NW one of these days, where we can return the hospitality and take you on some great rides.






We headed east on Highway 9 towards Zion, climbing as the sun rose over the hills. This is gorgeous country...and we all thought Rockville was a charming little town. Patty had left the truck in Springdale and ridden to meet us, so when all three of us got back to the truck, we loaded everything and drove into Zion through the west entrance. All of us kept looking around, saying! "Wow...". There is a tunnel that is one mile long that cyclists have to shuttle through, so we drove to a parking area
on the east side of the tunnel and Karen and Patty unloaded to ride. I bumped the truck up to the east entrance and rode back to meet them. I don't think we could've taken enough pictures. I will be back.





















At the truck, I kept riding east...past the Moqui caves. Karen and Patty bought me a "Moqui marble" for my rock of the day. The marbles are concretions of iron. They consist of an outer shell of hematite with a center of sandstone. Very cool.






At the junction of Highway 9 and Highway 89, I turned south. A huge climb was ahead of me along with strong headwinds. I guess you can't have it your way all the time, eh? The gusts of wind were so strong at times that I wondered if it was sandblasting my frame.
Fortunately, I got to head east at Kanab, and then that awful headwind became a sort of cross/tailwind. Patty rode with me and we had some great stretches of downhill called the Grand Staircase Escalante. We saw a bike touring company with a group of maybe 20 cyclists headed in the opposite direction. They might want to take a look at their marketing plan if they are sending folks out uphill in a headwind. I felt sorry for them.
I finished up the day with 101.3 miles and 4596' of elevation gain. My average was 12.73.
We drove to Lake Powell RV Park where the fellow in the office told us it was the "windy" season. No kidding. The weather board said 26 mph, and I'm sure the gusts were over 30. Setting up the tents was difficult, and we finally tethered them to the picnic table and rounded up some heavy rocks to weigh them down. Karen's went sailing at one point, and her poor rainfly is now torn in several places.
We fixed a dinner of chicken wraps, guacamole and chips, and a cold beer and ate in the truck. Using the picnic table would've been a disaster.
Tomorrow will be day 5 of this adventure, and it was the first 5 days I was most concerned about. I feel like I am about to turn a corner.
maybe you can't...because you won't...

Nevada---"What have you ever done to change the world?"

MapMyRide had our elevation gain for the day at over 3200', and with the heat and wind, I wanted an early start. The plan was a 5:30 a.m. start, but when I went to the garage to get my bike it had a rear flat. I had changed it last night because of a thorn I had picked up and for some reason, that Gatorskins tire was a bear to get off. I thought I was going to break my tire irons. It was as much work as riding the hundred miles. :) I would say that's the beauty of having two bikes along, but remember...my Rodriguez has the star nut/headset issue. So...I did the next best thing...I stole Laura's front tire. (She sent her bike with us, but won't hook up with us until Savannah, GA) I have heard it's better to ask for forgiveness than for permission.




The ride through Las Vegas was wonderful at 6:00 a.m. There was very little traffic, but I wouldn't have wanted to do it at 10 a.m. We got on Lake Mead Blvd. and started to climb. All of us loved the spectacular scenery...red rock outcroppings, hoodoos, towering rocks. So many pictures to take...so little time. Karen saw a coyote looking for some lunch, and Patty and I saw a couple of wild horses. You get glimpses of Lake Mead along this route, but the road does not hover above the lake like I thought it might. The temperature was in the mid 90's when I finished riding...7.5 hours, 3696' of elevation gain. My average speed was 13.4.
















I knew the mileage from North Las Vegas to I-15 at Overton wasn't quite 100 miles, but I thought maybe I could finish up the day by riding north on 1-15. Tom, who we stayed with last night, volunteers for a huge MS ride, and part of that ride is on I-15. He said they have taken numerous cyclists to the hospital because semi trucks zoom past them and draw the cyclist into their slipstream, where they lose control of their bike. Great. I decided to be smart...and safe...and retrace my route to Overton for those last 10 miles or so.

Karen had a great idea for riding in all of this hot weather. She thought we needed a water thermos to supply us with cold water all day long. Badda boom, badda bing...I think it's going to save the day.

But my hero for the day was Dave of Red Rock Bicycles in St. George. He fixed my tire and my headset when I walked through the door at 5 p.m. He is an avid cyclist himself, training for the Great Divide Ride which is a 2700 mile ride along the Continental Divide. He hopes to finish the ride in 25 days...on a fixed gear mountain bike. And you thought I was crazy.


I put a lei around my Garmin when I rode my first century in Hawai'i and Janet from Las Vegas thought it fitting to put a boa around it for the data from Nevada. Done. I like it.



Our Warm Showers host for the night was Lucy Ormond in Hurricane, Utah. The town is pronounced Her-ikun. She was a doll and the reason I love Warm Showers so much. Here is a retired woman who has a passion for cycling. She will go self-contained, she will camp, she will do some of her own bike repair. And she is full of resources. She is a volunteer at Zion and when she heard our plans for tomorrow, where I had scrubbed the idea of riding inside the park because of the holiday weekend and the traffic, she put in her two cents. We listened and changed our plans.




maybe you can't...because you won't...